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"best" and "worst" resin qualities by company?

Jul 9, 2014

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    1. Luts, while not everyone's preference, tends to cast their dolls a little thicker. Their resin is slightly shiny if it received direct, harsh lighting without some form of finishing spray, though. It's also not the tooth-iest resin out there. It's kind of an ordeal to get pastels to stick enough that you get a vibrant, not washed out color. That said, it's very pleasing to handle if you like a smoother doll with some heft to it. They definitely do not feel delicate to handle.
       
      #21 Thespian, Jul 10, 2014
    2. I've never really cared about doll's weight, short of thinking Iplehouse's E.I.D.'s are way too heavy for me and make me feel like I'll topple over holding them! It's just not something I put a lot of thought into.

      I don't like shiny resin a ton, but it can be fixed by just spraying it down. All my dolls with shinier resins have body blushing anyway so it's never been much of a problem. I think toothy can be nice because they aren't shiny to begin with. I like smoother feeling resin, just to feel it, but again. I don't think I care that much. It's much more about the aesthetics than the resin's feel.
       
      #22 Mirrin, Aug 13, 2014
    3. From all the dolls I have or used to have (CP, Fairyland, Luts, DOD, Dollmore, Soom, Volks, Iplehouse, Minoru world Junior) my favorite resin of all is the one from my old 2004 CP Chiwoo(he's 2nd handed so I received him in 2006). I love his resin so much, and it is the heaviest doll I have. The resin doesn't look shiny and it looks - in the words of my mother - high quality. She said this when she compared it to the SDF doll I used to have, Luts SDF resin is lighter (so much lighter) and can be shiny, she said it look 'cheap'. Fairyland feels good too but the old CP resin is still better. I like Dollmore, very smooth. I have a Minoru world Junior in 31cm and the little one is heavy...weights almost the same as my 45cm dolls.

      My favorites in order are:

      #1 Cerberus Project
      #2 Dollmore
      #3 Fairyland
      #4 Minoru World Junior
      #5 Volks
      #6 Iplehouse
      #7 Soom
      #8 Luts
      #9 DOD
       
      #23 yumi~, Aug 14, 2014
    4. My absolute favorite resin is ShinyDoll. It's heavy and smooth with a little tooth and I swear it does not seem to yellow at all! My newest ShinyDoll is from 2012, my oldest from around 2006 and they have no noticeable difference in color. Even the one WS ShinyDoll I own is still pristine white and she's from 2009. Not a hint of yellowing!

      Volks resin is my second favorite. It's so heavy and almost velvety feeling. It mellows to a lovely ivory tone and the quality is consistent. Though the formulation has changed, the earliest Volks dolls are still on par with the newest as far as quality of resin.

      I'm also a fan of Angel Egg resin. It's a cream white that is very porcelain like in appearance and feel. The artist primarily works with porcelain and I think she tried to get her resin dolls to have the same luminosity and tooth. It's really lovely!

      I dislike thin, super smooth feeling resins. They seem brittle and fragile to me. But I know there are a lot of collectors who just love silky, light weight resin and don't care for the heavier toothier resin that I prefer. I also dislike urethane resins that yellow quickly though I adore French resin even if it's butter colored! It really all comes down to personal preference.
       
      #24 renee_chan, Aug 15, 2014
    5. I didn't see this topic until now, but I've been pondering resin quality lately. What exactly constitutes quality resin, aside from personal preference?
      Thicker resin is heavier, and thinner resin can feel cheaper, even if the resin itself is the exact same.

      Personally, I like heavy/dense resin with a smooth texture. My first dolls are Dollzone from 2008 and they are both smooth and heavy. They feel very study, I never felt like I might break them by handling them at all. But, I just got a 2014 DZ doll, and the resin feels very different. The resin is still smooth, but it's lighter and doesn't feel as dense and sturdy :? Like the resin itself is more porous or something. I guess Dollzone changed their resin formula over time? I know companies make changes now and then.

      My old CP Delfs have great resin too, nice and heavy and dense.

      Another thing I've noticed when comparing the resin on my dolls, is that single jointed dolls feel nicer than double jointed dolls, dolls with thicker resin feel nicer than dolls with thinner resin (like comparing minifee with Delf, or new DZ mini with old DZ mini), and larger dolls feel heavier and sturdier than smaller dolls. My single jointed SDF feels nicer to me than the double jointed KDF I've handled, and the resin should be the same... for single vs double joints, I think true ball joints shift and move around more smoothly and that gives the feeling of higher quality to me at least. Super deep sockets needed for double joints means thinner resin in those parts too. Well, I guess this helps me know what kind of dolls to go for in the future.


      I'd love to have a line of of various company dolls and sizes to inspect the resin, lol. I've handled other people's dolls at meets, but I wasn't paying to much attention to just resin.
       
      #25 Yukamina, Aug 15, 2014
    6. I'm also very intrigued by the "quality" of resin from the same company from different years! My two Soom dolls feel kind of different. I have a Dolomi and a Picro, made a year apart from each other, and my Dolomi feels thinner and lighter. He is also on the old double jointed body, so that would account for less resin as well. It's very interesting!
       
      #26 Kotone, Aug 15, 2014
    7. A lot does depend on preference. I mod dolls a lot, so my resin preference is for something with a little tooth, not too powdery, and dense when you carve it. Dollzone has rather nice resin for working with, smooth and dense. Fairyland and Iplehouse both have nice resin too.

      NobilityDoll is the worst crap I've ever worked with- surprisingly soft, and feels like nougat compared to denser resins. It's very.. "powdery" under tooling or pressure.
       
      #27 Rosslyn, Aug 15, 2014
    8. Hmm, I guess I'll just throw it out there since no one has mentioned OceanMoon yet.
      Though I don't have other doll makers to compare to, when I first received the doll my first impression was "it's so heavy!" Not nearly as fragile as I imagined it would feel. It struck me as very lifelike, in light. The surface is not shiny on the face, hands, feet or limbs, but there's a little bit of sheen on the torso. I haven't tried applying pastel or faceup to her yet, so I'll edit this for "toothiness" later on once I get brave enough to do that.

      Overall though, it gives the impression of a really high-quality material.
       
      #28 Lokinta, Aug 16, 2014
    9. How can you tell what type of material your doll is made from == I bought mine used. It is a Island Doll Shakuku. Don't know how old he is. He is very pale and only looks yellow-ish when beside some of my Tonner dolls (which are very pink)
       
      #29 cr1965, Aug 16, 2014
    10. They have environmental resin. I honestly can't say what color, but if you google 'IslandDoll resin colors' IslandDoll has a chart of their resin colors up on their website as well as their retailers. You may be able to see what color your Shukaku looks like.
       
      #30 Mirrin, Aug 16, 2014
    11. thank you!
       
      #31 cr1965, Aug 16, 2014
    12. In terms of resin being rather shiny, Camellia Dynasty is really shiny and I can help but wonder when I start working on it how it'll turn out.
      If we're talking joints, Fairyland is the winner for me also the resin tone is really nice.
      Personally though, I like the weight of Soom dolls since it makes it feel solid and unbreakable, but that's just me. I'm rather new to the collecting department since I only got my first doll last year, but I do have a large number of dolls from a range of companies.
       
      #32 narurin, Aug 16, 2014
    13. I used to prefer the heavier resins in SD size, but got tired of lugging them to events. :o) These days I tend to go for MSDs in lighter weight resins.
       
      #33 jilllamyre, Aug 16, 2014
    14. I have two Doll Family girls and their resin is "plasticky", but it hasn't yellowed as I expected it would. I also own a Luts and it has a light tooth to it. The doll, although she is smaller than the Doll Family ladies, has quite a bit of heft to her. I like her resin better.
       
      #34 MommaPuddin, Aug 16, 2014
    15. I have a hybrid so I will say this:

      I love how Dollzone's resin feels, and I also like the AngelRegion resin as well (Noah's a hybrid of the two) I also have two Resinsoul dolls and honestly...I just love the feel of the resin. It has a nice smooth feel, and the color is REALLY consistent. I'll have had Avalon for two years in February and Vala a full year on Christmas Eve and Vala is a tan doll. No change in her coloring at all.

      Noah is very yellowed but she's also an older doll as well. I can't remember when she was possibly made, but she's yellowed to a nice natural skin color that looks realistic to me.
       
      #35 Arashi Uchiha, Aug 16, 2014
    16. How much do different types of resin yellow and how do you know which type a company uses?
       
      #36 ericac, Aug 23, 2014
    17. Even though they're(sadly)not in business anymore, I think my favorite doll when it comes to resin is my Glorydoll Louis. It's just so beautiful, it has some tooth to it, it's not shiny at all, such a gorgeous milky colour(even after 5 years)and it takes to blushing very well, and it just has this kind of translucency to it, even though it's not French resin..I really like it <3
       
      #37 Raouken, Aug 23, 2014
    18. ericac, *traditionally*, French resin was the type that yellowed the most because of its translucency. However, most companies use various mixes of polyurethane types, and French resin is often a component (Iplehouse had revealed this at one point) because it is a stronger resin type and imparts greater resistance to breakage than other types. In the past, dolls made entirely of French resin (the old Narae/Narin) did show significantly greater yellowing. Now, however, most companies, as said, are using private-formula mixes; others are using the newer "environmental" polyurethanes which don't yet have a documented record of how well they age.

      There's not only the aging due to UV effects, but most dolls undergo a type of oxidation of the topmost layer that creates a color change, most noticeable as a change from pure or paperwhite to an ivory tone. This will happen even if your doll is shut up in a box for its entire first year(s) of existence. (This was a welcome change for an early AOD NS body I'd bought, that started out life as a hideous bright pink that matched nothing I had, but which became a more useful "normal" skin tone over a year's time, despite being shut away in its box.) Sometimes you can lighten the tone of an older doll by giving it an all-over sanding. Some people use various chemical concoctions to try and remove the type layer.

      Then too, there can be a color change due to the "furtiveness", i.e., instability of some of the dyes used to color the resin, most usually the red dyes. When the IP EIDs came out, the tans were greening because of a combination of the resin mix used and the fading/breakdown of the red dyes.

      Additionally, you'll find that the rate of yellowing can vary significantly even among a single company's products, depending on the time of year a doll is made. There have been noticeable effects on resin initial color and stability by seasonal factors like humidity and heat. Years ago, when the Delf line was far more prominent in collections (far fewer options in the early years of the hobby!), although nothing ever came of it, we used to propose starting a database solely documenting when a white-toned doll had been ordered and made and tracking its changes over time. That was because some would turn greenish-white (the infamous BG, or beauty-green, since their white was being called BW, beauty-white), others stayed very white for much longer, and yet others went ivory or eventual yellowish without hitting greenish. (Soom white usually starts off very white, or pale ivory, but I had a fresh-from-fabrication white minigem that arrived to me greenish-white!)
       
      #38 hobbywhelmed, Aug 23, 2014
    19. Keep in mind I'm not familiar with the new resin formula changes companies have made as my experiences were a whopping 7 years ago...

      With my Elfdoll Soah and K, I was almost put off by how shiny the resin was. After a quick spray with MSC though, it was GORGEOUS. Very smooth, matte, and looked like real skin. Almost luminescent. It didn't seem to have much tooth and I didn't do faceups back then so I'm not sure how it would be to work with. I did mod my soahs hands and feet. Fingers were softened with a hair dryer and bent to a more graceful position and toes were separated with an exact knife. The resin seemed soft when I did the toes. I had my girl for a long time and never saw her yellow. If she did it was creamy, smooth, and even.

      I did not care for the Soul doll resin on my lupinus. It wasn't smooth at all and felt thin when posing. However, my sister has that doll today and he doesn't seem to have yellowed much in 7 years... and I bought him secondhand. So I applaud that. My sister lived in a smoking household with him for 4 years and still no yellowing. It certainly didn't have a shine either.

      I handled an El and Lishe at a meet and the resin was beautiful. It was very smooth and had a nice quality.

      Souldoll is the only resin I've been put off by so far. I may have liked it better if I'd taken the time to sand it down smoother but I just was like eh at the time.

      I'm waiting on a resinsoul doll so I'll let you know what I think about the resin when she arrives.
       
      #39 dollieaddict, Aug 23, 2014
    20. I do prefer heavier resins, and whether they're smooth or rough, I'm fine with as long as they are not too shiny. I'm a bit biased towards CP (especially the older ones though the ones I own are from after 2009) and Volks resin because of the "solid" feel, I think. But most of the time, how much I like the resin really depends on how easy it is to get faceups to go on. For example, Elfdoll resin is really shiny, but looks gorgeous after spraying with MSC. I can't remember if it took pastels well, because my girl's faceup was done quite a while back so I can't remember if the lack of blushing is my lack of skills then or the resin -_-''' I like Leeke's resin too, although it is really thin (the thinnest headcaps I have, honestly), but it's really easy to get pastels and blushing on and looks really nice when done. Nobility's is a bit annoying and never takes colour well for faceups :/ Migidoll is okay, one of my Miho has some weird patches where pastels never stick but others where they hold really well but my other Miho is totally fine >_< LLT is really nice and solid too, I feel. I managed to do a whole faceup in 1 layer, which just shows how much tooth it gets with MSC. o.O
       
      #40 cian, Aug 24, 2014
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