Discussion of 2007 Unoa Pre-order (Shipped Dec. 2007)

See the link on the previous page to elastic lengths that work well - just confusing as to how much to add for the knot.

I am done trimming except for those elbows, thigh tops, and face. Still have to sand...

Carolyn

 

Ok - I think I understand the thigh ball resin tabs. (note "think")

The thigh balls and thighs have letters in them L or R.
Get a matching thigh ball and thigh.

Hold both with their edge slots up and openings facing you.

The wide smooth tab on one edge of the thigh ball is a keeper and that will slide into the wide depression inside one side of the thigh opening.

Look opposite the wide depression, inside the thigh. There are two small round depressions.

Now look inside the thigh ball with the slotted edge up. At the top of the inner ring there are two ball-like bumps, one on each side of the slot. Stuck on top of and partially behind those is thin sprue (extra resin), and where that sprue meets the outer edge of the thigh ball it may join some more sprue along the edge on either side of the slot.

I am finding it very tricky to get that sprue out from over and behind the ball-like bumps. But I am getting close. A mini knife-edge file helps.

Edit - got it close enough to pop it in - now I can't get it out so I can sand and glue later!... nm got it off.


Carolyn

 

Carolyn - fold the elastic in half and measure where Rhian said. drop the ruler, keep your fingers on that spot where you measured - then make a knot RIGHT THERE. don't pull it tight - measure again and then you can still sort of move the knot up and down as you need to get that measurement, then tighten. the length should be 7 inches doubled RIGHT BELOW the knot. do the same for the 15. don't cut anything until after you've got a nice, tight knot, and the measurement is where you want it. THEN cut off any excess.

HTH!

 

Thanks! That should help everybody.

Two more questions...

1. Superglue type - liquid or the gel for porous materials?
2. Trimming inside Lusis's mouth - when I look with a magnifier I can see a little rough ridge standing up at the back of her lower lip. If I need to get rif of that, how?

Carolyn

 

Both kind of Superglue will work on resin just fine. I use the gel because you can control where it goes better.

An Xacto knife will work very well to remove the ridge inside the mouth. Have you tried putting her "teeth" in yet? If you can't see anything showing when you look at her face with the "teeth" in I wouldn't bother with trying to remove the ridge.

CONGRATS to everyone on receiving there girls!!!

 

Would an exacto knife work for the ridges in the eyes too?

 

My girls together. This pic is horrible..but it's the best I can do without Natural light. I love her very much.





THANK YOU so much to everyone who gave help and instruction on putting this doll together. The tips in this thread helped alot.

~Meee

 

Abby....since the joints "Click" into place...I think it's be okay. I used the Super Glue (Gel) Because I just didn't want to take any chances.

I redid my girls faceup and she stole the wig and outfit from my Hybrid. I like her with her new faceup much more





I hope everyone's having fun putting their kits together.

~Meee

 

My lovely Ekaya:



Here's Ekaya's box opening thread:

http://www.denofangels.com/forums/showthread.php?t=183845

and i made a tutorial of how to put her together!!!

http://www.denofangels.com/forums/showthread.php?t=183949

 

My Juniper!!!!

Box Opening
Some Photos

 

Everyones Girls Look Great! Its exciting to see all of them & have so many Arriving.

Here is Mine (No Name yet)-The face up is not by me. Its a Wink Face plate I got this summer.
It was fun to put her together. Easier then I thought it would be. Getting her feet on was hard!




dress & wig by me

 

Is there a "getting started" thread with a list of all you need to sand/put together/take care of your bjd?
Because I had it very easy with Vaughne my first bjd(mnf shiwoo) and now my sist girl is coming and I have little clue as to how to take care of her and the procations for sanding and what not.
and http://www.denofangels.com/forums/showthread.php?t=183949 is very helpful but doesn't answer all my questions, but it's hard to get answers when you don't know the question to ask.

 

loreax -

Kittywolf13 did a nice tutorial on putting together a Unoa:
http://www.denofangels.com/forums/showthread.php?t=183949

Read the comments there also, and the comments in this thread over the last few pages as several people including me got some questions answered about putting them together.

If you get stuck anywhere, ask here.

As for tools - for assembly you will need an Exacto knife for removing some extra tabs of resin left over from the molding process (aka sprue). You can see the black arrows at the start of the instructions and the tutorial to understand which are sprue and which are necessary protrusions for posing!

I also found some tiny knife-edge and pointy knife-edge files were helpful for some hard-to remove sprue.

Some "found" tools - a white stiff hanging tag from some newly bought clothes (or any sharp-cornered thick paper), and a narrow stick of emery board cut from one of those thin match-book style packs of emery boards (they are thinner than normal emery board). I use the emery stick to sand in tight places and the stiff paper tag corner to remove stubborn little loose bits of resin in the eyes and mouth. (and just FYI also great if any putty ever squeezes through to he front of an eye)

You need some sandpaper, I think Kittywolf used 360-600 grit range (US grit numbering, numbering is quite different in some other countries but there are conversion tables on the web). Wet/dry sanding materials give you the option of sanding wet to reduce dust. Conversion table to European ISO/FEPA grit numbering:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandpaper#Grit_sizes

At one point in the construction you are supposed to use a bit of superglue.

A dust mask is a good idea. Resin dust is toxic to people, pets, etc.

For more info about seam removal and sanding in general see the Painting and Customization section of DoA. Ditto for information on faceups and the type of matte lacquer spray you have to spray before and after doing a faceup (normally Mr Super Clear Flat aka MSC is the main choice, but it is out of stock everywhere). Note that the spray is also toxic, must be used outdoors in suitable dry calm warm-enough weather. If you are not doing your own faceup and not blushing the body, then you do not need MSC.

The Unoa resin is nice and smooth and sometimes a bit shiny. But if you want to remove the seam lines or reduce the shine of some pieces, then sanding is necessary, and sanding will be needed where you remove some of the thick pieces of sprue (like back of heel).

Carolyn

 

I got my girl yesterday, is an Unoa Lusis with big breast part and today I have finished the assembling and the face-up. This is the first time I do it by myself. Hope you like it.