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Size vs. Posability?

May 31, 2010

    1. Hi there,

      I suppose this question is for the more experienced doll handlers but since I'm almost completely new to the hobby, any input would be great!

      Other than liking how they look, I was thinking I should get a doll for more practical purpose (other than photography): using as a model for drawing. From what I've seen, the bigger 1/3 dolls seem more proportional to what I have in mind (older characters) but do they pose better or are there 1/4 dolls that would be better for this?

      Right now, I'm torn between a 1/3 (DollLove Leon/Lenon) and 1/4 (RingDoll Valo) that cost about the same. I don't think I'll go any smaller than 1/4. Any one have an opinion or recommendations? Thanks~
    2. Oh boy. You've got a lot to learn. :sweat

      I would have to say that size does NOT matter with regard to posing ability. Some company's dolls pose really good, they are just crafted very well in this way. And this is not to say that all of the more expensive company's dolls pose better than the companies that sell more inexpensive dolls because that is not true at all.

      A big tip to the newbie: you will learn about something called sueding. You can find threads on it in the Customization subforums. This is where you can have someone (or yourself) line the doll's joints with very thin suede or just a hot-glue lining to give friction so the doll will hold positions better. It's a wonderful thing. But you'll have to trust sending your doll to someone or trust yourself to do it correctly. Don't worry, after you're in the "hobby" a while you'll be less pokey-eyed about everything.

      But I'd say if it's the larger doll you really want then do searches around the forum and find out about this brand of doll to see what people say about it. And the same for the 1/4 size doll. It will help you. This forum is a wonderful resource. So grab a shovel and dig in! :)
    3. I find 1/4 much more easier to deal with personally.
      They seem to not want to fall down as easy and hold poses more naturally.
      Minifees and Volks SDC's I really like for pose-ability.
      I think it really has a lot to do with what size you are comfortable with personally and the particular company, as well as getting the right string tension, having kips or sueding, etc.
    4. Hmm, IMHO posing depends mostly on the company, not the size of the doll so much. However, you are right, it is much easier to find realistic/mature dolls in the 1/3 size!

      If you're looking for a nice and poseable drawing model with more realistic proportions, off the top of my head I would suggest:

      1/3 scale: Iplehouse SID's (they are a new line so check the Limited and NC sections too, most molds end up as standards too) look like they will be very good posers. Domuya and Loongsoul make dolls that I would say have truly amazing posing, though they don't have the realistic proportions of the SID's.

      1/4 scale: Fairyland's new C-line. Fairyland is legendary for their awesome posing, so you may want to check out their Minifee line too if you decide to go for a 1/4 size doll.

      Welcome to the hobby, and good luck finding the doll for you! There are tons more out there. ^_^
    5. Agreeing with everyone else that size and expense do not dictate level of poseability. I do think that some companies really spend time on engineering quality while some just churn out body shaped things to wear clothing and keep the heads off the ground. BJD owners look for so many different things in the dolls they own so some people will sacrifice poseability for other desirable traits.

      I don't think that between your two choices either are really great posers, more like average sit/stand posers. I'd look for owner pics showing standing un-aided and sitting upright without the help of a back support before saying they are even "good" posers. Both Doll Love and Ringdoll are fairly new companies and not many people have dolls from them so it may be hard to get feedback comparing them to one another. I like the look of the Rindoll head sculpts, their bodies look very slender so it may be difficult to find clothing if you are after a slim fitting look. I don't know anything about Doll Love as a brand.

      As far as dolls in the 1/3 range go my most poseable are my Volks boys in the SD16, SD17 and the new SDGrafitti (SDGr) sizes. I'm also very happy with my Luts Senior Delf. Dollstown dolls have a very nice realistic body sculpt and good proportions and they are decent posers but they lack double joints in their knees and elbows. I'm looking forward to getting an Iplehouse SID type as well, from the promo pics the new boy body looks crazy poseable. I'm also waiting for Fairyland to release a 60cm+ size using their new Chic Line engineering but who knows how long the wait for that will be.

      As far as 1/4 scale mature minis - I'm not well versed in the size but I agree that the new Fairyland Chic Line look awesome. If Fairyland is good at anything it's at engineering dolls that can pose!
    6. When you say that you're looking for "good posing," define what that means to you. :)

      The more joints the dolls has, in general, the more poses it can get into. In particular, a three part arm (upper arm, elbow, and lower arm) and three part leg (upper leg, knee, lower leg) make a doll able to get into a lot more poses than the equally common two part limbs (where the elbow and knee are part of either the upper or lower joint). Some dolls go further and add an unattached ball joint for the ankles and wrists. Torsos also come, commonly, in two and three parts.

      A problem that I've had with my three-part-limbed dolls is that they tend to "flop" a bit more. They can be put in a lot more poses, but they don't hold poses still particularly well . My two-part-limb dolls, on the other hand, are stiffer and will stay in their poses easily. (IE, Elanore, a DIM three-part-joint girl, can touch her nose, but her hand will drop back down again when I stop holding it. Constance, an SD13 two-part-joint girl cannot touch her nose, but if I put her arm up in a wave, it will stay there).

      Another improvement that some companies have is slots-and-knobs on joints, so that although they can be posed freely into all sorts of positions, they can also be 'locked' into certain common positions (like standing and sitting). To me, the three-part-limb + locking joints is the perfect combination--however, the doll I have that has these does not have a particularly graceful body.

      Note that as a drawing reference (and yes, I'm a professional artist), dolls are less than stellar models. Their general proportions are fine, but since they don't have muscles to contract and bunch up, they are not going to give you a very realistic view of what the body looks like when posed. Also, fabric on doll-sized clothes doesn't lay or fold the way that it does on a full-size model.