Difference between revisions of "seams"

Revision as of 14:09, 5 May 2010

ABJD are made by casting resin into silicone or metal molds. Often, these molds are made up multiple pieces in order to avoid damage when the cast pieces are removed from the mold. Any place where mold pieces may create thin, raised or depressed lines in the surface of the pieces called seams.

Seams are created when resin seeps into the small crevasses between mold pieces and cures. More prominent seams occur when the mold pieces are not carefully aligned.

Seams may be removed by cutting and/or sanding them smooth. BJD are made of resin, which is potentially toxic. It is unhealthy to inhale the dust as it doesn't biodegrade in the body and in most cases, causes crystallization or silicosis in the lungs when exposed for a long period of time. As with any sanding procedures, proper safety gear and ventilation is highly recommended.

Most companies do not include seam sanding in the price of the doll. Some offer sanding services for a separate fee. This is because it takes more time and work to give the doll a lovely finish. Prices of the service depends on both the company and the size of the doll, or in some cases, if the doll has special parts or resin color. Only a few doll companies include the service with their standard dolls, some may include them with their sales of limited edition dolls.

Some resins cannot be sanded. Tanned or fantasy color skin tones are not usually suitable for sanding as it may cause discolorations. Depending on the resin type and color, it is possible to have minimum discoloration when sanding. Using or working towards a more finer grade of sandpaper can minimize differences in the seam and the general skin color. It is possible that with even "normal" or "white" skin tones, that sanding can be slightly tricky as, even if you sand them down some, you may still see a "seam" depending on the angle of lighting or even a marbling effect in some skin tones, even if you don't "feel" a seam. This can be caused if the resin has some areas that are "slightly" weaker in color mixture around the seam areas and simply hadn't blended or has separated some.

Methods of Removing Seams

Cutting

Normally, cutting by itself does not produce the smooth and blended surface that most are looking for when removing seams, but sometimes cutting seams are essential when the seam is thick or sharp. This would reduce the time it takes to sand down the seam. Cutting tools normally used are x-acto/exacto knives, ceramic knives, or even "cardboard" cutters. Aside from ceramic knives, many other "knives" have a potential safety hazard and the potential to damage the resin too much. The best recommendation is a ceramic knife as the blade is both blunt (will not cut you) and yet can cut through resin fairly easily and smoothly without cutting huge chunks at a time (allowing easier customizing). Currently many doll companies are starting to include the ceramic knives as part of their supply of tools for customizing. VolksUSA[1] and eLuts[2] are examples of companies that currently carry such knives.

Sanding

There are two main types of sanding, wet and dry. Both suggest using small, circular strokes and some may suggest a small figure eight motion. It's usually suggested to starting with a lower grit of sandpaper and build up to a more finer one, depending on how strong the seam is. A general range around 300-1200 grits are common.

Wet is usually suggested, if possible, because the dust particles will not fly or float in the air to be inhaled when done properly. Therefore is considered the one of the safest method of sanding when doing your own sanding, though safety procedures are still suggested to be used as a precautionary. The wet method usually involves the doll part to either be submerged in a basin of water while sanding or that the doll part and sanding tool (usually a sanding sponge) be kept wet when sanding with the bowl of water beneath to catch resin dust and clumps. In the wet method, it is important to use the proper type of sanding "paper", as regular papers will not hold up to being wet. Sanding sponges are normally used or sometimes firmer pads. Since water is involved, electrical devices are not advised as it will cause electrocution.

The dry method, definitely requires proper use of safety gears (like masks, eye-wear, etc.) Gloves are also suggested, especially if one has a sensitivity or allergy to the resin. The safest way to sand the dolls using the dry method is to have either a special sanding booth to contain, filter and/or ventilate dust OR have a really good ventilation mask/eye-wear and an open area with good air circulation. Note that as with any forms of allergy or allergic reaction it is possible for one to develop and allergy to resin even after working with it for a few years.