Difference between revisions of "Face-up"

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m (moved faceup to Face-up: Non-capitalized page titles look very odd in the headings.)
(Major edit - rewording the introduction, adding much more information and specific brands.)
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−
'''Face-Up''' - The application of varied mediums to a doll's facial surface area(s), in part or in whole, to create varied aesthetic effects. To enhance facial features; To create a different appearance from the original face. Also been known to be referred as "make-up or makeup" by some or spelled as "faceup" without the dash. Sometimes the words are separated, but are usually spelt together depending on the person.
+
A '''face-up''' is the application of varied mediums to a doll's facial surface to create various aesthetic effects. Face-ups come in a variety of styles and purposes; they can enhance facial features, create a different appearance from the original face, or simply give the blank face a finished look. Face-ups are sometimes referred to as "make-up" as it often consists of adding make-up effects such as lipstick, eyeliner, and blush.
  
−
----
+
Face-up may sometimes be spelled "faceup" without the dash, or, less commonly, "face up" with the words separated and no dash.
  
 +
== Purpose and Information ==
  
−
Faceups are what gives the doll it's main looks and personality. Even with the same sculpt, a faceup can dramatically change the look and mood of the doll. Some faceups are natural looking while others are more dramatic. In more dramatic faceups some people like to add a tattoo or "scars", but anything that involves etching or raising the surface of the resin would be considered a [[modification]]. Most companies offer faceups as an option, usually a [[default]] look or, in some cases, a customized look is offered, as well. Prices will vary from each company and individual artists, including whether the custom version would cost more than the default. Many mediums are used to create a faceup which includes (but not limited to) pastels, acrylic paints, sealants, varnish, etc. Generally the more pricier brands of art mediums produce the best results, as they are higher pigmented and create smoother, well blended colors. Much of the same mediums used for faceups are also used for body [[blushing]]. Many doll owners also choose to do their own faceups. One thing that is commonly mentioned is that mediums that have an oil base are not to be used, as it stains the resin. Mediums that are water soluble or water based are highly recommended.  Many doll companies offer supplies and materials to customize dolls, so in many cases, when in doubt of what to use, you can see/get what they are selling.
+
A face-up can give a doll its own unique look and personality. Even with the same sculpt, a face-up can dramatically change the look and mood of the doll. Some face-ups are natural-looking while others are more dramatic; the variations are endless.  
−
Below are lists of suggestions to help along and are subject for additions and adjustments.
+
  
 +
Face-ups can include such features as:
  
 +
* Blush
 +
* Freckles
 +
* Moles
 +
* Shading and highlighting to contour the face
 +
* Wrinkles
 +
* Eyebrows
 +
* Eyelashes (painted on or applied false eyelashes)
 +
* Eyeshadow
 +
* Lipstick
 +
* Tattoos
 +
* Scars
  
−
== Faceup Do's & Don'ts ==
+
Face-ups are usually done once any subtractive or additive [[modification]] (such as etching or raising the surface of the resin to create a scarred look) is completed.
−
'''Do'''
+
−
*Use water based or water soluble mediums
+
−
*Use a proper sealant
+
−
*Keep your hands as clean as possible throughout the process or wear gloves (smudges can be ''really'' problematic)
+
−
*Use proper safety gears and procedures when handling materials that gives off a fume or dust
+
−
*Use proper or recommended solutions for faceup removal
+
−
*Keep tools properly clean (and in some cases, keep them clean while doing the faceup)
+
−
*Practice, practice :D
+
−
*
+
−
*
+
  
 +
Most companies offer face-ups as an option on dolls for purchase for an additional fee.  Usually the face-ups provided by companies are a [[default]] look, though in some cases, a customized look is offered.  There are many independent artists who also provide face-up services.  Prices vary from each company and individual artists, including whether the custom version would cost more than the default.  Many individual doll owners choose to do their own face-ups to help in customizing their doll to their liking.
  
−
'''Don't'''
+
Face-ups are considered non-permanent, as the pigments may fade over time, the sealant used may yellow, or the face-up may wear or chip due to damage or play.  Plastic face protectors may be purchased to protect a doll's face-up during travel or storage, but most face-ups will have to be redone after some time to fix fading or damage.
−
*Use oil based mediums
+
−
*Use nail polish
+
−
*Use real makeup made for humans
+
−
*Dip or submerge the doll's head in the solution meant to remove faceups (especially for long periods of time)
+
−
*Use permanent marker, ie Sharpie. It doesn't just stain, it eats through the resin.
+
−
*
+
  
−
== List of mediums and their recommended brands ==
 
−
*Pastels - Rembrandt, Zoukei-mura (ZM), Sennelier,
 
−
*Acrylic Paints - Liquitex, Mr.Color, Zoukei-mura (ZM), Golden,
 
−
*Sealants - Mr Super Clear Matte (UV preferred), Testors Dull Coat,
 
−
*Airbrush paints - Badger,
 
−
*Watercolors (blocks, pencils and paints) - PrismaColor, Derwent pencils, Caran d'Ache,
 
−
*Varnish (gloss, matte, satin) - Liquitex, Gaia,
 
−
*Eyelashes - (can be the kind for dolls or humans, may require cutting down some for proper fit)
 
−
*Glue (for eyelashes) - Elmer's Glue, Aleene's Tacky Glue,  Superglue (for a more permanent setting)
 
−
*
 
−
*
 
  
−
== List of tools w/suggestions==
+
== Materials for Face-ups ==
−
*Paint brushes - a decent range/variety of good brushes to apply paints and pastels, usually you're going for medium to smaller brushes. Know the feel and function of each bristle type; sable, nylon, natural, etc. as each have a different way of working.
+
 
−
*Pastel grater - to grate the pastel sticks into powder or you can use a little kitchen mesh sieve used for only this purpose and do the same thing. Using this tool provides more pastel powder with less wasted.
+
A wide variety of materials available to create a face-up. Which materials will be used depend on the particular style of the face-up artist, the look they would like to achieve, and sometimes, the local availability of the items. Generally, the higher priced materials produce better results, as they have a higher proportion of pigments in smaller particles, and create smoother, better-blending colours. Many of the same materials used for face-ups are also used for body [[blushing]].  Some companies offer supplies and materials for customizing dolls, and their products are usually safe to use on resin dolls.
−
*Q-tips - the regular kind is good, but the kind used for makeup (with a pointy end and a round flat end) is even better. The later is great for detailing or removing faceups in small/large crevasses and doesn't "shed".
+
 
−
*Airbrush kit - any kits will do as long as you know how to properly use them.
+
 
−
*Any containers to hold water to rinse the brushes, having a designated cup is suggested.
+
=== Good ===
−
*Any nonporous surfaces to hold paints, although items used specifically for such things are suggested.
+
 
−
*Brush cleaner detergent - many brands have this type of cleanser made to clean brushes specifically. Soap and water can be used, but does not keep the brushes conditioned or properly break down dried paints without some damage to the bristles. So it is highly recommended to keep brushes in tip-top shape.
+
These materials are widely regarded as always or almost always good to use on resin dolls for face-ups.  Note that these are generally water-based or water-soluble.
−
*Paint/palette knife - used to mix the paints. A medium/small one is suggested since there usually isn't much paints you're going to be working with.
+
 
−
*Gloves - recommended to minimize smearing and prevent fingerprints.
+
'''Pigments'''
−
*Stencils - great for creating tattoos easy and quickly, but can be use for many other ways depending on the medium.
+
* Soft pastels (also called chalk pastels) - Rembrandt, Derwent, Mungyo, Pan Pastels, Zoukei-mura, Sennelier
−
*Cotton pads - can be used for clean ups, removing excess pastels, dabbling brushes and so on. Cotton pads used for makeup and/or removal is suggested since they won't shed as much, if at all, and are usually more shape specific which allows for different uses.
+
* High-quality acrylic paints and flow medium - Liquitex, Zoukei-mura, Hobbycolor, Jo Sonja, Tamiya, Games Workshop Citadel, Mr. Color, Golden
−
*Mask - for safety when using spray sealants, airbrushing, or working with any fumy substances.
+
* Watercolour pencils - Prismacolor, Derwent, Caran d'Ache
−
*Masking Tape - great for makeshift stenciling and to also simply cover areas from being colored. Can be worked in coloring in layers, in some cases.
+
* Watercolour paints
−
*
+
 
−
*
+
'''Shine/Shimmer/Pearl'''
−
*
+
* Mineral-based shimmer/pearl powders - Pearl-Ex, Zokuyema Shimmer Powder
 +
 
 +
'''Sealants'''
 +
* Mr. Super Clear Flat or Mr. Super Clear Flat UV Cut
 +
* Testors Dullcote
 +
* Games Workshop Purity Seal Satin (UK version may be different than US)
 +
* Zoukeimura Finishing Powder
 +
* Gunze Mr. Topcoat
 +
 
 +
'''Glosses'''
 +
* Acrylic gloss - Liquitex Clear, Tamiya-X22, Jo Sonja, Gaia
 +
 
 +
'''Adhesive'''
 +
* Water-soluble white glue - Elmer's Glue, Aleene's Tacky Glue
 +
 
 +
 
 +
=== Okay ===
 +
 
 +
These materials are usually fine to use on resin, but may be a problem under certain circumstances.
 +
 
 +
'''Pigments'''
 +
* Human makeup that does not contain any oils (such as mineral eye shadows where you can check the ingredients)
 +
 
 +
 
 +
=== Bad ===
 +
 
 +
These materials should generally be never used for face-ups, and may stain or otherwise permanently damage the resin.
 +
 
 +
'''Sealants'''
 +
* Most spray sealants or topcoats - unless you know it works on resin, don't risk it!
 +
 
 +
'''Glosses'''
 +
* Clear nail polish (some may yellow over time or react badly with resin - not worth risking it)
 +
 
 +
'''Pigments'''
 +
*Regular coloured pencils of any sort (they use a wax binder)
 +
*Oil pastels
 +
*Oil paints
 +
*Human makeup containing any sort of oil
 +
*Sharpies or other permanent markers
 +
*Nail polish containing any pigments
 +
 
 +
 
 +
== Removing Face-Ups==
 +
 
 +
A face-up may eventually need to be removed or redone due to damage, fading, or just wanting to change the doll's look.  Removing a face-up can be a difficult and sometimes risky process, so it is very important to do it properly to avoid damage.
 +
 
 +
Many of the cleaners commonly used for removing face-ups are solvents, meaning it is made to dissolve another material.  This makes them great for removing sealants, paints, and pastels... but it also means that they can be risky to use on resin.  Some solvents may change the colour of the resin, especially on tan, dark skinned, or otherwise pigmented dolls.  Some solvents may soften the resin, making it subject to bending, cracking, or breaking; often the softening is temporary, but sometimes it is not.  Some solvents may cause pitting or etching, or otherwise weaken the resin. 
 +
 
 +
Whether or not a particular solvent affects a particular doll varies greatly depending on individual resin formulations, resin pigments used, and the exact method of application.  French resin may react differently from urethane resin.  Even the "same" resin from a particular company may react differently due to its particular formulation on the day it was mixed, so it's not possible to say that a particular solvent is always 100% safe.
 +
 
 +
Any solvent used should have these qualities:
 +
 
 +
* Clear and unpigmented
 +
* No fragrances
 +
* No oils
 +
* No moisturizing or conditioning additives
 +
* As few ingredients as possible - look up any additives as it may not be clear that an ingredient such as lanolin is an oil
 +
 
 +
When using a solvent, try to follow these recommendations:
 +
 
 +
* Avoid soaking a doll in any cleaner - soaking may be helpful for deep yellowing or removing dye, but shouldn't be necessary to remove a face-up or sealant
 +
* Always gently clean with q-tips or lint-free cotton pads - never use any abrasive or combine any solvent cleaner with a melamine sponge.
 +
* Always test first on either an unneeded piece such as a spare hand or somewhere that won't show such as the inside of the headcap or torso
 +
* Always use glass as a container for any solvent cleaner - not plastic, waxed paper cups, or styrofoam.
 +
* If the resin has softened at all from cleaning, do not continue using any kind of cleaning tools on it until it has re-hardened
 +
* To help speed re-hardening from solvent use, you can put your doll in a cloth bag and put it in dry rice to help draw out any moisture.  Discard the rice when done - do not eat it.
 +
* Always clean off your doll parts when using any solvent, using oil-free soap and warm (not hot) water.
 +
 
 +
 
 +
=== Solvents ===
 +
 
 +
* Volks Makeup Remover
 +
* Non-acetone nail polish remover
 +
* Nail polish remover with acetone
 +
* Pure acetone
 +
* Isopropyl alcohol
 +
* Winsor & Newton Brush Cleaner (original only, not the gel)
 +
* Most thinners/brush cleaners for acrylic paints
 +
 
 +
=== Non-Solvents ===
 +
 
 +
* Clear mineral oil (baby oil) for cleaning/keeping dust down in sanding, if cleaned off with soap and water immediately afterward
 +
* Plain, non-moisturizing dish soap (not hand soap)
 +
 
 +
=== Cleaning Tools ===
 +
 
 +
* Melamine (magic eraser) sponge - do not use together with solvents or anything stronger than a bit of water
 +
* Q-tips (regular are fine, but makeup q-tips are especially good as one end is usually pointy, allowing access to nostrils, insides of ears, mouth corners, etc.)
 +
* Lint-free cotton pads
 +
 
 +
 
 +
== Face-Up Tools==
 +
 
 +
These tools are often useful in doing face-ups.  Not all tools will be necessary for all face-ups or all artists, but are here as a suggestion.
 +
 
 +
* Paint brushes - medium to high quality (cheap brushes usually shed), generally medium, small, or tiny in size.  There are many different types of bristles such as sable or nylon, and is mostly a matter of personal preference and style.
 +
* Pastel grater or small kitchen mesh sieve.  Should be used only for art stuff (not for food after).  This is a good way to get fine powder and less waste.
 +
* Q-tips (regular are fine, but makeup q-tips are especially good as one end is usually pointy, allowing access to nostrils, insides of ears, mouth corners, etc.)
 +
* Gloves (cotton, latex, or non-latex) to prevent smudging
 +
* A specific cup or glass that you won't be using for food or drink again, used to rinse brushes
 +
* Paint palette for holding paints or grated pastels - any non-porous surface will do, but a palette may make for easier use and blending.
 +
* Brush cleaner - soap and water can be used, but won't keep the brushes in as good of condition
 +
* Small Paint or palette knife to mix paints
 +
* Kneaded rubber eraser, for fixing small errors
 +
* Stencils or masking tape - useful for doing eyebrows and other details; masking tape can also be useful to cover areas you don't want to colour
 +
* Airbrush kit
 +
* Cotton pads - for removing excess pastels or blotting brushes
 +
* Sponges - natural or synethetic, for doing texture effects
 +
* [http://www.denofangels.com/forums/showthread.php?399096-What-you-need-to-know-about-respiratory-protection! Proper respiratory protection] (a mask) when spraying sealant
 +
 
 +
 
 +
== Face-Up Tips and Tricks==
 +
 
 +
* Always seal well before beginning the face-up, and let the sealant dry thoroughly.  This protects from staining and gives a good "tooth" to the blank face so pastels will adhere.  2-3 coats of sealant is usually recommended.
 +
* Keep your hands clean, or wear gloves to prevent smudging
 +
* Use proper safety gear when using materials that give off fumes or dust - this means safety goggles and [http://www.denofangels.com/forums/showthread.php?399096-What-you-need-to-know-about-respiratory-protection! proper respiratory protection].
 +
* Keep your tools clean, and make sure to clean them off between colours or materials.
 +
* You can always seal partway through your face-up process to "save" what you have done already.
 +
 
 +
 
 +
== Face-Up Tutorials==
 +
* [http://www.denofangels.com/forums/showthread.php?115346-Gretel-head-faceup-tutorial-D Gretel Head (Vinyl)]
 +
* [http://www.denofangels.com/forums/showthread.php?179798-Volks-SD-Make-up-Workshop-(L.A.-Dolpa-Report) Volks Makeup Workshop]
 +
* [http://www.denofangels.com/forums/showthread.php?249314-Tutorial-Natural-faceup Natural Faceup]
 +
* [http://www.denofangels.com/forums/showthread.php?245752-Tutorial-Dramatic-faceup Dramatic Faceup]
 +
* [http://www.denofangels.com/forums/showthread.php?249527-Tutorial-build-on-Gothic-faceup Gothic Faceup]
 +
* [http://www.denofangels.com/forums/showthread.php?323975-.-%E2%99%A5-Faceup-Tutorial-by-elisa_maza-AngelToast-%E2%99%A5-.-(Pastels-amp-Acrylics-9-2009) Pastel & Acrylics]
 +
* [http://www.denofangels.com/forums/showthread.php?317389-*Faceup-Tutorial-by-Belladonna*-Using-Pastels-and-Acrylic-8-18-09 Pastel and Acrylics]
 +
* [http://www.denofangels.com/forums/showthread.php?292916-Basic-natural-face-up-tutorial-Show-me-your-results-3 Basic Natural Face-up]
 +
 
  
 
== List of Suppliers ==
 
== List of Suppliers ==
−
*Michael's Arts & Crafts [http://michaels.com/art/online/home]
+
*[http://michaels.com/art/online/home Michael's Arts & Crafts] (US)
−
*Hobby Lobby [http://www.hobbylobby.com/]
+
*[http://www.hobbylobby.com/ Hobby Lobby] (US)
−
*Mini World [http://www.miniworlddolls.com/index.htm]
+
*[http://www.miniworlddolls.com/index.htm Mini World] (US)
−
*VolksUSA [http://www.volksusa.com/tools---materials-painting.html]
+
*[http://www.volksusa.com/tools---materials-painting.html VolksUSA] (US)
−
*
+
*[http://shop.fashiondoll.nl/ Think Pink!] (Netherlands)
−
*
+
*[http://www.triskelfantasy.com/ Triskel Fantasy Shop] (Netherlands)

Revision as of 19:39, 1 June 2011

A face-up is the application of varied mediums to a doll's facial surface to create various aesthetic effects. Face-ups come in a variety of styles and purposes; they can enhance facial features, create a different appearance from the original face, or simply give the blank face a finished look. Face-ups are sometimes referred to as "make-up" as it often consists of adding make-up effects such as lipstick, eyeliner, and blush.

Face-up may sometimes be spelled "faceup" without the dash, or, less commonly, "face up" with the words separated and no dash.

Purpose and Information

A face-up can give a doll its own unique look and personality. Even with the same sculpt, a face-up can dramatically change the look and mood of the doll. Some face-ups are natural-looking while others are more dramatic; the variations are endless.

Face-ups can include such features as:

  • Blush
  • Freckles
  • Moles
  • Shading and highlighting to contour the face
  • Wrinkles
  • Eyebrows
  • Eyelashes (painted on or applied false eyelashes)
  • Eyeshadow
  • Lipstick
  • Tattoos
  • Scars

Face-ups are usually done once any subtractive or additive modification (such as etching or raising the surface of the resin to create a scarred look) is completed.

Most companies offer face-ups as an option on dolls for purchase for an additional fee. Usually the face-ups provided by companies are a default look, though in some cases, a customized look is offered. There are many independent artists who also provide face-up services. Prices vary from each company and individual artists, including whether the custom version would cost more than the default. Many individual doll owners choose to do their own face-ups to help in customizing their doll to their liking.

Face-ups are considered non-permanent, as the pigments may fade over time, the sealant used may yellow, or the face-up may wear or chip due to damage or play. Plastic face protectors may be purchased to protect a doll's face-up during travel or storage, but most face-ups will have to be redone after some time to fix fading or damage.


Materials for Face-ups

A wide variety of materials available to create a face-up. Which materials will be used depend on the particular style of the face-up artist, the look they would like to achieve, and sometimes, the local availability of the items. Generally, the higher priced materials produce better results, as they have a higher proportion of pigments in smaller particles, and create smoother, better-blending colours. Many of the same materials used for face-ups are also used for body blushing. Some companies offer supplies and materials for customizing dolls, and their products are usually safe to use on resin dolls.


Good

These materials are widely regarded as always or almost always good to use on resin dolls for face-ups. Note that these are generally water-based or water-soluble.

Pigments

  • Soft pastels (also called chalk pastels) - Rembrandt, Derwent, Mungyo, Pan Pastels, Zoukei-mura, Sennelier
  • High-quality acrylic paints and flow medium - Liquitex, Zoukei-mura, Hobbycolor, Jo Sonja, Tamiya, Games Workshop Citadel, Mr. Color, Golden
  • Watercolour pencils - Prismacolor, Derwent, Caran d'Ache
  • Watercolour paints

Shine/Shimmer/Pearl

  • Mineral-based shimmer/pearl powders - Pearl-Ex, Zokuyema Shimmer Powder

Sealants

  • Mr. Super Clear Flat or Mr. Super Clear Flat UV Cut
  • Testors Dullcote
  • Games Workshop Purity Seal Satin (UK version may be different than US)
  • Zoukeimura Finishing Powder
  • Gunze Mr. Topcoat

Glosses

  • Acrylic gloss - Liquitex Clear, Tamiya-X22, Jo Sonja, Gaia

Adhesive

  • Water-soluble white glue - Elmer's Glue, Aleene's Tacky Glue


Okay

These materials are usually fine to use on resin, but may be a problem under certain circumstances.

Pigments

  • Human makeup that does not contain any oils (such as mineral eye shadows where you can check the ingredients)


Bad

These materials should generally be never used for face-ups, and may stain or otherwise permanently damage the resin.

Sealants

  • Most spray sealants or topcoats - unless you know it works on resin, don't risk it!

Glosses

  • Clear nail polish (some may yellow over time or react badly with resin - not worth risking it)

Pigments

  • Regular coloured pencils of any sort (they use a wax binder)
  • Oil pastels
  • Oil paints
  • Human makeup containing any sort of oil
  • Sharpies or other permanent markers
  • Nail polish containing any pigments


Removing Face-Ups

A face-up may eventually need to be removed or redone due to damage, fading, or just wanting to change the doll's look. Removing a face-up can be a difficult and sometimes risky process, so it is very important to do it properly to avoid damage.

Many of the cleaners commonly used for removing face-ups are solvents, meaning it is made to dissolve another material. This makes them great for removing sealants, paints, and pastels... but it also means that they can be risky to use on resin. Some solvents may change the colour of the resin, especially on tan, dark skinned, or otherwise pigmented dolls. Some solvents may soften the resin, making it subject to bending, cracking, or breaking; often the softening is temporary, but sometimes it is not. Some solvents may cause pitting or etching, or otherwise weaken the resin.

Whether or not a particular solvent affects a particular doll varies greatly depending on individual resin formulations, resin pigments used, and the exact method of application. French resin may react differently from urethane resin. Even the "same" resin from a particular company may react differently due to its particular formulation on the day it was mixed, so it's not possible to say that a particular solvent is always 100% safe.

Any solvent used should have these qualities:

  • Clear and unpigmented
  • No fragrances
  • No oils
  • No moisturizing or conditioning additives
  • As few ingredients as possible - look up any additives as it may not be clear that an ingredient such as lanolin is an oil

When using a solvent, try to follow these recommendations:

  • Avoid soaking a doll in any cleaner - soaking may be helpful for deep yellowing or removing dye, but shouldn't be necessary to remove a face-up or sealant
  • Always gently clean with q-tips or lint-free cotton pads - never use any abrasive or combine any solvent cleaner with a melamine sponge.
  • Always test first on either an unneeded piece such as a spare hand or somewhere that won't show such as the inside of the headcap or torso
  • Always use glass as a container for any solvent cleaner - not plastic, waxed paper cups, or styrofoam.
  • If the resin has softened at all from cleaning, do not continue using any kind of cleaning tools on it until it has re-hardened
  • To help speed re-hardening from solvent use, you can put your doll in a cloth bag and put it in dry rice to help draw out any moisture. Discard the rice when done - do not eat it.
  • Always clean off your doll parts when using any solvent, using oil-free soap and warm (not hot) water.


Solvents

  • Volks Makeup Remover
  • Non-acetone nail polish remover
  • Nail polish remover with acetone
  • Pure acetone
  • Isopropyl alcohol
  • Winsor & Newton Brush Cleaner (original only, not the gel)
  • Most thinners/brush cleaners for acrylic paints

Non-Solvents

  • Clear mineral oil (baby oil) for cleaning/keeping dust down in sanding, if cleaned off with soap and water immediately afterward
  • Plain, non-moisturizing dish soap (not hand soap)

Cleaning Tools

  • Melamine (magic eraser) sponge - do not use together with solvents or anything stronger than a bit of water
  • Q-tips (regular are fine, but makeup q-tips are especially good as one end is usually pointy, allowing access to nostrils, insides of ears, mouth corners, etc.)
  • Lint-free cotton pads


Face-Up Tools

These tools are often useful in doing face-ups. Not all tools will be necessary for all face-ups or all artists, but are here as a suggestion.

  • Paint brushes - medium to high quality (cheap brushes usually shed), generally medium, small, or tiny in size. There are many different types of bristles such as sable or nylon, and is mostly a matter of personal preference and style.
  • Pastel grater or small kitchen mesh sieve. Should be used only for art stuff (not for food after). This is a good way to get fine powder and less waste.
  • Q-tips (regular are fine, but makeup q-tips are especially good as one end is usually pointy, allowing access to nostrils, insides of ears, mouth corners, etc.)
  • Gloves (cotton, latex, or non-latex) to prevent smudging
  • A specific cup or glass that you won't be using for food or drink again, used to rinse brushes
  • Paint palette for holding paints or grated pastels - any non-porous surface will do, but a palette may make for easier use and blending.
  • Brush cleaner - soap and water can be used, but won't keep the brushes in as good of condition
  • Small Paint or palette knife to mix paints
  • Kneaded rubber eraser, for fixing small errors
  • Stencils or masking tape - useful for doing eyebrows and other details; masking tape can also be useful to cover areas you don't want to colour
  • Airbrush kit
  • Cotton pads - for removing excess pastels or blotting brushes
  • Sponges - natural or synethetic, for doing texture effects
  • Proper respiratory protection (a mask) when spraying sealant


Face-Up Tips and Tricks

  • Always seal well before beginning the face-up, and let the sealant dry thoroughly. This protects from staining and gives a good "tooth" to the blank face so pastels will adhere. 2-3 coats of sealant is usually recommended.
  • Keep your hands clean, or wear gloves to prevent smudging
  • Use proper safety gear when using materials that give off fumes or dust - this means safety goggles and proper respiratory protection.
  • Keep your tools clean, and make sure to clean them off between colours or materials.
  • You can always seal partway through your face-up process to "save" what you have done already.


Face-Up Tutorials


List of Suppliers

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